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HISTORY
Chongmyo
is the royal ancestral shrine of the Choson dynasty (1392-1910) where
the spirit tablets of its kings and queen are enshrined and memorial rites
are observed in respect of time-old Confucian traditions. The construction
of the shrine, a major state institution of Korea’s last monarchy,
began in the ninth month of 1394 after its founding ruler, Yi Song-gye
or Taejo, chose Seoul as his new capital and was completed in the twelfth
month of the next year. The shrine was expanded and repaired on many occasions
thereafter to accommodate the spirit tablets of succeeding kings and queens.
Currently, Chongjon (Main Hall) has 19 rooms ensconcing a total of 49
tablets for kings commanding greater respect and their queens. Yongnyonhjon
(Hall of Everlasting Peace), a smaller annex, has 16 rooms housing 34
tablets of kinds considered not worthy of the Main Hall, posthumous kings,
princes and their wives. The original structures were all burnt down by
Japanese troops during the Hideyoshi invasions in 1592-1598. The present
buldings were reconstructed in 1608.
A map of the royal
ancestral shrine form Records of Chongmyo, compiled in 1697.
A sketch of the
façade of the Main Hall. It consists of a large rectangular hall
with a front corridor the individual rooms and side wings. A series of
round pillars line the corridor. With no windows, the building is designed
to be kept dark inside.
ARCHITECTURE
Chongmyo comprises two major ritual halls and seven auxillary structures
including Kongshindang (Hall of Meritorious Officials), a pavilion where
the kings prepared themselves for rites, warehouses for storing ritual
vessels and incense, and a dressing room for musicians. The shrine stands
out among Korea’s ancient architectural monuments for its simple
and austere style stressing a solemn atmosphere. Both the Main Hall and
Hall of Everlasting Peace, each enclosed with a square wall, consist of
a large rectangular hall with a long front corridor connecting the individual
rooms. The halls stand on broad two-tiered stone terraces occupying almost
the entire expanse of the courtyards. Running though the stone terraces
from south to north is a brick-covered central walkway which is reserved
for the royal spirits. There us not a single plant in the two courtyards
whereas the rest of the spacious compound is covered with thick woods,
a deliberate scheme to better expose the halls to the ethereal energy
of the heavens. The shrine is designated Historic Monument No. 125.
CHONGJON (Main Hall)
YONGNYONGJON (Hall of Everlasting Peace)
The main hall and
the Hall of Everlasting Peace have the same basic spatial plan based on
repetition, symmetry and symbolism, though the former is of a somewhat
larger scale than the latter. Permeated by a solemn atmosphere, the wooden
structures are simple and functional with highly restrained use of decoration,
which results in an austere aestheticism rarely found in Korean traditional
architecture. The steep roofs are imposing and the round pillars running
the entire length of the façade symbolise the perpetuity of the
royal lineage, while the broad stone terraces add to the mystic feeling
if tranquillity. The Main Hall is designated National Treasure No. 227
and the Hall of Everlasting Peace is Treasure No. 821.
Rites For Royal Ancestral
Worship
The royal ancestral rites at Chongmyo, designated intangible Cultural
Property No. 56, represent the most majestic court customs from Korea’s
last monarchy. The solemn but rites, officiated by the kings and featuring
elaborate music and dance, were intended to appease the souls of the deceased
rulers and seek their benevolence for peace and prosperity in the nation.
During Choson times, the rites were observed frequently around the year,
including those held to offer the new harvest for each of the four seasons
and to report on major events in the state and court. The rites were suspended
temporarily during the turbulent years earlier this century. Nowadays
they held once a year on the first Sunday of May.
The front corridor of the Main Hall connecting the individual rooms
which enshrine the royal spirit tablets. Round wooden pillars line the
corridor.
Above left – A brass vessel used in the royal ancestral rites.
Above right – During the Choson period, the kings officiated the
rites at Chongmyo in the company of princes, courtiers of all ranks and
members of the royal family. Since 1971, the rites have been held under
the auspices of the association of descendents of the Yi royal family.
Right – The officiants perform the rites before each of the rooms
where the royal spirit tablets are enshrined.
The music accompanying the royal ancestral rites at Chongmyo attained
the present style during the reign of King Sejong in the 15th century.
The music eulogizes the civil and military accomplishments of the successive
rulers of the dynasty. It is designated Intangible Cultural Property No.
1.
WORLD HERTIAGE
Recognised
as a cultural asset with distinguished and universal value deserving protection
for all humanity by the UNESCO World Heritage Committee in its 19th general
meeting convened in Berlin, Germany, on December 9, 1995. Chongmyo was
included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List in accordance with the “Agreement
on the Protection of World Heritage and Natural Monuments”.
CHONGMYO OFFICES
1 Hunjong-dong, Chongno-gu, Seoul, Tel: 02-765-0195
To Frank: Thanks for providing the above information.
To all: A few words …
Coincidentally, Haze has visited the Chongmyo Shrine before. That happened
in a late morning in one late summer. The weather was hot and dry. She
almost melted under that intense heat.
That memory was distant and rather vague. She recalled walking along the
stone footpath, like Dong Xian and Zhen Yin did. She has seen the wooden
steps where Dong Xian sat while waiting for Zhen Yin. That is a big and
serene place. Most of the trails are covered with stones of various sizes.
There is a big quadrangle inside. The doors in the buildings are closed.
The corridors are lined with round pillars, similar to those of traditional
Chinese Palaces.
That visit was made before she watched "Hotelier". Else, she'll
have taken much more notice. Due to the change in circumstances, that'll
be a different feeling altogether between now and then. The first time
she saw Dong Xian and Zhen Yin strolling along that footpath, she murmured,
"I have been to this place ... However, it wasn’t that magical
then."
Futher
information about the Chongmyo shrine can be found in:
worldheritage,
lifeinkorea and skynews
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